Mysteries of a V8 that aren't covered in the Shop Manuals
and How to Degree Your Cam & Crank by D. Dare

...means synchronizing the camshaft and crankshaft positions with respect to each other.  This determines valve-to-piston timing and nothing is more important.  A few degrees of misalignment can dramatically affect your engine's performance. 

Ever wondered why some new engines run 'sweeter' than others even though they came off the same assembly line?  Manufactured keyways in the sprockets, crankshaft and camshaft create tolerances that may stack against your damper pulley timing marks.  If the marks are to be trusted, simply assemble the timing chain set, get paid and go home ...dealership-style.

Aftermarket camshafts come with a 'Specification Card' which is a tag showing the degrees of valve openings, closings, and lifter height.  But two questions arise; how can we check the numbers and, what if the card is missing and we know nothing about the cam?

The only way to be absolutely sure the cam and crank are positioned properly is by using a degree wheel.  So, whenever possible, take a few minutes and degree-in your cam.

Proper tools include a Degree Wheel, a stable pointer mounted securely to the engine block, a dial indicator with at least one inch of travel in .001" increments with a stand that mounts to the engine, and a Positive Stop to locate TDC on the top of the piston.

 1.  DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!  Never use the starter motor to perform any of these steps, rotate the crankshaft BY HAND:
To find TDC, start with #1 piston down somewhat from the top (~45°).  Remove the #1 spark plug and insert a Positive Stop.  Mount the Degree Wheel on the crankshaft bolt and mount a wire pointer to the block (pointing at the edge of the degree wheel).  Rotate the crank in one direction until the piston hits the stop, mark the wheel at the pointer, rotate in the opposite direction until it stops, mark the wheel again, then carefully turn just the Degree Wheel (not the crank) until the pointer is exactly between your two marks.  Or, you can leave the degree wheel as is and move the pointer between the two marks.  This is the true Top Dead Center.  On FE engines, the damper key should be at the bottom.  REMOVE THE POSITIVE STOP.

 2.  Most cam companies use the '.050" method' for degreeing.  This is the most accurate method because most lobes are asymmetrical, with the opening side of the lobe being much more aggressive than the closing side.  The automotive industry references all measurements from sitting in the driver's seat.  So, Ford engines rotate counterclockwise.

During your readings, if you rotate the crank too far, keep going.  Never back up because backlash from the timing chain set (or gears) will cause an error your cam readings.  Simply continue rotating in the proper direction.

Cam companies use #1 cylinder for their measurements.  Using solid lifters makes this job easier and more accurate, otherwise use the outside 'shell' of the lifter to mount your dial indicator.  Make sure the dial's plunger is straight up and in line with the lifter travel and the indicator stand is solidly mounted.

Rotate the crankshaft until #1 intake is closed (lifter is down on the base circle of the cam).  Zero the indicator dial.  Keep rotating until the lifter slowly rises to .050" and record the reading on your degree wheel.  Keep rotating until the lifter falls to .050" just before the base circle, and record that degree wheel reading.  Now do the same with the exhaust valve lifter.  These readings should match the Spec Card, "CAM TIMING AT .050" TAPPET or LIFT" within .001".

So, you can see, there are two crankshaft revolutions for each cam rotation.  That means the crankshaft actually has 360° times two = 720°.  So, if you see numbers on a cam card that exceed 360°, just know they are crank degrees on the second revolution.

5. If there is no Inspection Card, where exactly IS zero on the cam?

Consider when #1 piston is at TDC (in its Power Stroke), #6 is also at TDC (in its Exhaust Stroke).  So, just as #6 rocker arms are exactly in the middle, between when the intake is closing and the exhaust is opening, when the rocker arms are dead even, THIS is the cam's TDC.  We call this SPLIT OVERLAP timing, because the cam is neither advanced nor retarded with respect to the crankshaft TDC.  Race engines use this timing.

To complicate matters, some camshaft companies 'build-in' a couple degrees of advance to compensate for timing chain stretch.  Is your cam advanced?  There's only one way to find out...  Degree it.

It is a good idea to advance your cam, especially if you do mostly city driving with occasional expressway thrown in.  Advancing brings the torque curve down to improve low and mid range performance.  There are a few different ways to change cam timing.  Offset cam or crank keys and offset bushings are available at most speed shops for little cash.  Just remember, two crank degrees equal one cam degree.

When you degree your cam, you may find it is way off.  I have seen Ford 460's cams retarded fifteen degrees from the factory (de-tuned for emissions).  In this case, I advance one chain tooth, then use an offset cam key to finally advance to 4° (CAM degrees).

Below are some examples of offset keys.  The right hand picture shows the dowel hole has been enlarged to accept a new cam bushing.  Bushings are usually sold in a set of four; zero offset, 2°, 4°, and 6° offset.  Simply drill the cam sprocket's dowel hole larger, and insert the offset bushing either to advance or retard the sprocket.  The offset can be reversed by using the zero-offset bushing.

Some timing chain sets offer the crank sprocket with seven key slots broached.  The center is zero offset. the three to the left are 2°, 4°, and 6 CRANK degrees advanced (which is really 1, 2, and 3 cam degrees).  The three keyways to the right retard the cam as much.  Do not be confused.  Do your timing from the crank sprocket marks.  Just before I close the timing cover, I always verify my cam timing by setting #6 rocker arms level (split overlap) and reading the crank's degree wheel.

This is a 'true roller' timing chain set on a Ford Y-Block.  Notice the bottom sprocket with all the key slots.

Ford FE intake manifolds are somewhat tricky to set.  They enter into the heads by 1/3, and they tend to leak if not set properly.  Careful attention must be paid to align and install the distributor before you torque the intake manifold bolts.  I have seen distributors that refuse to turn or come out because of improper alignment.  I've seen oil pump shafts that were skewed which caused terrible wear on the hex, making distributor removal very difficult.